The Darkroom - Revision history

Aplstudent: /* An aside: */

2019-04-16T20:53:35Z

‎An aside:

Aplstudent: /* Chemical Development Process */

2019-04-15T23:56:40Z

‎Chemical Development Process

Aplstudent: /* Contact Printing */

2019-04-15T23:51:30Z

‎Contact Printing

Aplstudent: /* Contact Printing */

2019-04-15T23:45:58Z

‎Contact Printing

Aplstudent: /* Prep and setup */

2019-04-15T23:42:08Z

‎Prep and setup

Aplstudent: /* Chemical Development Process */

2019-04-10T18:14:22Z

‎Chemical Development Process

Aplstudent: /* Chemical Development Process */

2019-04-10T18:10:50Z

‎Chemical Development Process

Aplstudent: /* Chemical Development Process */

2019-04-10T18:10:35Z

‎Chemical Development Process

Aplstudent: /* Make Test Strips */

2019-02-14T23:25:14Z

‎Make Test Strips

Aplstudent: /* Make Test Strips */

2019-02-14T23:22:37Z

‎Make Test Strips

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 . Clean Up (developer and hypowash can be poured down the drain with water, fixer should be poured into the a container labelled "Spent Fixer" which can be found in the dark room). Also be sure to rinse out all containers used.
-====An aside:====
+====Technical Information====
 ----

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:56, 15 April 2019
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	5. Rinse		5. Rinse
		+
		+	6. Clean Up (developer and hypowash can be poured down the drain with water, fixer should be poured into the a container labelled "Spent Fixer" which can be found in the dark room). Also be sure to rinse out all containers used.

	====An aside:====		====An aside:====

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 Thus, the layers for the exposure process should be a sheet of glass, the film (emulsion side up), the paper print (ink side down), and another sheet of glass.
-The light source for your exposure will be the enlarger. An enlarger is commonly used to enlarge 35mm negatives, but you already have a paper negative so the enlarger will just act as a timed flashlight. A picture of the enlarge can be found below. You will place your glass-film-paper-glass sandwich under the enlarger and use the timer to vary the exposure time. The light will turn on for that amount of time and then turn off automatically.
+The light source for your exposure will be the enlarger. An enlarger is commonly used to enlarge 35mm negatives, but you already have a paper negative so the enlarger will just act as a timed flashlight. A picture of the enlarge can be found below. You will place your glass-film-paper-glass sandwich under the enlarger and use the timer to vary the exposure time. The light will turn on for that amount of time and then turn off automatically. The enlarger has multiple color capabilities and is adjustable. Set the enlarger to white by flipping the "W" switch up, which ensures the light is white. Next, adjust the lens distance (essentially the focus) until the enlarger produces a uniform area of light that will cover your print. If the light is not uniform over the whole area of the print the film will not develop evenly.
   [[File:Enlarger.png]]

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 ===Contact Printing===
-- Next, prepare the contact print setup. You need two 8x10 glass sheets from two normal contract printing beds, to make a glass-film-paper-glass sandwich. Glass is very flat and must be used to ensure the maximum retention of detail.
+- Next, prepare the contact print setup. You need two 8x10 glass sheets from two normal contract printing beds, to make a glass-film-paper-glass sandwich. Glass is very flat and must be used to ensure the maximum retention of detail. There should be flat sheets of glass in the dark room but it may require some searching to find them.
-- Prepare film to approximately the size of your art. We have 8x10 inch film sheets, so that it is natural to cut each down to four 4x5 inch pieces if this can accommodate your art. Don't be afraid to have some spare border so the film can easily be handled after without getting fingerprints on the art itself. You will also need test strips of Lithographic film to confirm the correct exposure. Check the film jacket for existing cut-down pieces before getting out another 8x10 sheet.
+- Prepare film to approximately the size of your art. We have 8x10 inch film sheets, so that it is natural to cut each down to four 4x5 inch pieces if this can accommodate your art. There is a paper cutter in the corner of the dark room behind a curtain. When cutting, don't be afraid to have some spare border so the film can easily be handled after without getting fingerprints on the art itself. You will also need test strips of Lithographic film to confirm the correct exposure. Check the film jacket for existing cut-down pieces before getting out another 8x10 sheet.
 All film that is not this very second being cut, exposed or developed must be stored in the black film jacket and returned there promptly between cutting and exposure. Never take more than one sheet out at a time. The orange safelight will not expose it quickly, but the safelight and stray light from the enlarger will expose it eventually and this mal-exposure (known as fogging) is undetectable until the film is developed. Wear gloves while handling the film to avoid getting filthy dirty meatpaw marks all over it (a glove will be needed during development anyway). To the greatest extent possible, handle the film by its edges.

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:42, 15 April 2019
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	- Lay out chemical trays: developer, stop bath (water), fixer, hypowash.		- Lay out chemical trays: developer, stop bath (water), fixer, hypowash.
		+
		+	There free-to-use containers of fixer and hypowash (hypoclear) in the cabinets labelled "Open Use Chemicals". These cabinets are located on the right side of the small hallway as you walk in through the door of the dark room (the hall between the door and the curtains). In this cabinet you will also see containers of "Stop", don't use this chemical for the stop bath, just use water.

	The developer comes in two parts (A and B). Per the instructions on the bottles, mix 100ml of Part A concentrate to 300ml of water. Then separately Mix 100ml of Part B to 300ml of water. Disregard the nonsense about 68F -as long as the temperature of the AB mix is in the vicinity of 80F before development you are okay. It was found that just diluting the concentrates of A and B with hot water straight from the darkroom's hot tap worked quite well with the still fridge-cold concentrate. Pour the water mixed with A into the tray, then the mix of B and water into the same tray. Then wash the beaker thoroughly (water/agitate/dump 3x). Once mixed, the developer apparently has a frighteningly short useful lifetime - order of a few hours - which is why it comes in separated bottles.		The developer comes in two parts (A and B). Per the instructions on the bottles, mix 100ml of Part A concentrate to 300ml of water. Then separately Mix 100ml of Part B to 300ml of water. Disregard the nonsense about 68F -as long as the temperature of the AB mix is in the vicinity of 80F before development you are okay. It was found that just diluting the concentrates of A and B with hot water straight from the darkroom's hot tap worked quite well with the still fridge-cold concentrate. Pour the water mixed with A into the tray, then the mix of B and water into the same tray. Then wash the beaker thoroughly (water/agitate/dump 3x). Once mixed, the developer apparently has a frighteningly short useful lifetime - order of a few hours - which is why it comes in separated bottles.

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 ===Chemical Development Process===
-. Developer
+. Developer (2-5 minutes)
-. Stop Bath
+. Stop Bath (30 seconds)
-. Fixer
+. Fixer (5 minutes)
-. Hypowash
+. Hypowash (5 minutes)
 ====An aside:====

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:10, 10 April 2019
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	===Chemical Development Process===		===Chemical Development Process===
		+
		+	1. Developer
		+	2. Stop Bath
		+	3. Fixer
		+	4. Hypowash

	====An aside:====		====An aside:====

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 ===Make Test Strips===
-Test strips are used to determine the ideal exposure time for your film. To test the different times you will cover 4/5 with a light blocking material (thick cardboard or plastic) and expose 1/5 of the strip for 5 seconds. Next you will move the light blocking material to reveal 2/5 of your strip and expose the strip for another 5 seconds. You will repeat this process by covering less and less of your strip until the whole strip is exposed. This results in a strip having 5 different exposer times (the first 1/5 having 25 seconds of exposure while the last 1/5 only having 5 seconds of exposure). This [https://brucetannerphotographer.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/hast-lin.jpg image] demonstrates how the variations of exposure times will affect an image and how the test strip should look with regards to 5 different exposure areas.
+Test strips are used to determine the ideal exposure time for your film and are made by contact printing a strip of film with different exposure times. To test the different times you will set up a contact print with your paper negative and test strip, then cover 4/5 with a light blocking material (thick cardboard or plastic) and expose 1/5 of the strip for 5 seconds. Next you will move the light blocking material to reveal 2/5 of your strip and expose the strip for another 5 seconds. You will repeat this process by covering less and less of your strip until the whole strip is exposed. This results in a strip having 5 different exposer times (the first 1/5 having 25 seconds of exposure while the last 1/5 only having 5 seconds of exposure). This [https://brucetannerphotographer.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/hast-lin.jpg image] demonstrates how the variations of exposure times will affect an image and how the test strip should look with regards to 5 different exposure areas.
 To make your strip cut a small strip of film paper (an inch wide and about 5 inches long) and place this under the enlarger. Exposure time depends somewhat on enlarger head height and strongly on developer temperature (development is a thermodynamic process and is exponential in temperature). With an empty 35mm film holder in the enlarger, all color filters set to neutral, the lens aperture fully open, and the enlarger head moved down so that the image is about 11 inches wide, begin exposing the film for 5 second increments.